Tutor feedback - Sally Taylor

Today I had a chat with Sally Taylor a fine art, drawing and contextual studies tutor about my work how my ideas had developed to my concept and how the links to my research.

After seeing my deconstructed suit I explained how I wanted to combine the traditional techniques of tailoring with the rather new pattern cutting method of subtraction cutting. Sally suggest that mixing the two contrasting pattern cutting ideas might not make a balanced garment. She advised that I could alternately create an outfit that combines the methods in a more balanced manner but to still experiment with combining the two methods so see what happens.

We also talked about how I was going to link my future outcomes with my theme of of the Japanese culture. After looking at my research of the folk law tale of the Snow Woman and the different versions I explained that my colour pallet and fabric choices where decided from the one of the version of the tale where the spirt of the snow woman entices travellers to their deaths but spares the some of the young and beautiful. In the the versions of the tale the spirt appears either naked or in a white kimono and from this I want to use white or a pale colour, light weight fabric that is slightly transparent. I want to use a lightweight fabric to represent the flowyness of the snow and a white or pale slightly transparent fabric because of what she is described as wearing/not wearing. 

Sally asked me if I had every read Memoirs of a Geisha by Arthur Golden or seen the film and how I could take elements from the story like the the sale of the main character's (Chiyo Sakamoto) "mizuage" - the coming-of-age ceremony for an apprentice Geisha where wealthy buyers to bid on her virginity so the apprentice could become a full Geisha. 

In the book Chiyo Sakamoto presents prospective bidders ekubo (a sweetened rice cake) to prospective buyer to signify it is her time for mizuage. 

“Mameha went to a confectioner’s shop that same week and ordered on my behalf a kind of sweet-rice cake we call ekubo, which is the Japanese word for dimple. We call them ekubo because they have a dimple in the top with a tiny red circle in the center; some people think they look very suggestive.”


“Please accept these ekubo, Doctor,” I said, and after bowing, placed the package on a side table near his hand.”

Excerpt From: Arthur Golden. “Memoirs of a Geisha.” 

I like the idea of models carrying ekubo on the catwalk or in a photography shoot, wearing my garments because it is a strong link to the Japanese culture.

The details of the mizuage ceremony are not in the film so unless people had read the book or knew about the culture the presence of the rice cake would not be understood but I like the idea of the mystery behind this element.

Tailored Suit Deconstruction

After a one to one with Jo concerning what universities I want to apply to and what I would like to do we decided that my work should try and incorporate tailoring into what I am doing now because of me applying for Bespoke Tailoring at London College of Fashion.


So at lunch I went around some charity shops in town looking for a cheap tailored jacked to use in my work.

I deconstructed the jacket so I can see all the different aspects and pattern pieces that go in to final jacket. 

Looking at the suit after experimenting with subtraction cutting technique, the two ways to produce garments are very different; one is very structured and planned where as the other if not vigorously documented may never be able to be created again, making it each garment unique. 

I want to try and combine both pattern cutting approaches, either mixing the two ways in a single garment or creating separate garments, each using a different pattern cutting technique for an overall outfit. 

Experimentation - Subtraction cutting - The 'Tunnel' Technique

Toady I experimented with two techniques of subtraction cutting demonstrated in Julian Roberts' 'Free Cutting'. 

He calls the two techniques the 'Tunnel' and the 'Plug' techniques.     

The 'Tunnel' Technique

Using any round object to hand (in this case an empty coffee cup) to create the holes to be sewn together internally to create a obscure tunnel for an object, like the body, to travel through. 

The first sample I created I only cut two holes in the fabric keeping the fabric flat and with to twisting it to get my head around how it worked.

In the second sample I 

subtracted more of the fabric and twisted the fabric to see what textures, shapes, the way it drapes

To best demonstrate how the tunnel technique manipulates fabric is with it on a object or body part. This shows how 'subtracting' fabric and sewing the holes together causes a mass of fabric that falls and drapes naturally. By subtracting the fabric in this way you create lots of interlinked layers from one piece of fabric. 

I think small aspects of a garment using this technique, like a sleeve or a collar would give a garment a new edge whereas using this technique in all of a garment might be too over powering for the style of collection I have in mind making the clothing less elegant and I might struggle to reflect my concept  that is still developing through my research.

Design Your Future - Manchester UCAS Fair

Today college gave the opportunity to go to the Design Your Future UCAS fair in Manchester for further university research and a chance to speak to the tutors and university representatives.

While at the fair I had another chance to speak to representatives from UAL about the BA (Hons) Bespoke Tailoring course and how to produce a portfolio that would give me the best chance of entry into the course. I was told that hey want to see the creative journey from the initial inspiration and starting point to final outcomes. I was also told that knowing how to sew isn't directly needed because they will teach all the techniques on the course but it is helpful to know before hand and having evidence in my portfolio wouldn't hurt.

I also spoke to the Ravensbourne tutor who teaches the BA (Hons) Fashion Design course. I liked the idea of the course because it was open design course meaning that I didnt have to pick menswear or womenswear before beginning the course. However after speaking to the tutor I have decided that I will no longer apply to the course because of the way she spoke to me and about her students. The tutor seems a little demeaning and I don't think I would be inspired to do my work studying with her. 

Southampton Solent also had a stand at the event and I went to speak to them because last year I applied and received a place on the BA (Hons) Fashion Styling but after consideration I declined the course because no part of the course gave me the opportunity to produce my own clothing. I wanted to know how if I would be able to apply to the university again after declining my place for styling and apply for design which I was told was fine but not to give up on Fashion Styling and to do more research into it to see how the course had changed but she was not able to talk to me about fashion design because she didn't know much about the course. 

Lastly I spoke to De Montfort University about their BA (Hons) Fashion Contour course to the tutor who teaches on the course. She explained to me all the expects of the course I would learn; research and development, how to produce the final outcomes, fabric and material knowledge. After speaking to the course leader the course seems very in-depth and readies their students for the industry however the down side of the course to me was that fact that it is not in London so it doesn't have the same strong industry links and no opportunity is given to actually work in the industry like a gap year or placement year. 

London College of Fashion (LCF) Craft Cluster day

Today some of the fashion pathway, who are planning to applying to UAL, were given the opportunity to attended a cluster day at LCF John Prince's Street in London. We met the course leaders and were given a presentation on three courses; BA (Hons) Bespoke Tailoring, BA (Hons) Cordwainers Fashion Bags and Accessories: Product Design and Innovation and BA (Hons) Cordwainers Footwear; Product Design and Innovation.  

The talk about Bespoke Tailoring inspired me the most given by of Darla Gilroy, the programme director for the three course presented, on behalf of Jacqueline Sealy as Jacqueline had lost her voice and could only communicate through typing messages. 

The programme is highly specialist teaching students the handcraft tailoring techniques along with other skills such as design, pattern drafting, research methods and presentation skills.

Bespoke tailoring is clothing made to the individual buyer's specification and traditionally the customer is a man however this course also teaches the skill and techniques for womenswear tailoring which starting to develop a considerable amount of attention. 

Bespoke Tailoring caught my attention the most because it is very hands on course, the traditionality of the skills taught and the fact that the course is an 'open design' course meaning that I am not constrained to either menswear or womenswear.

Task Three - Research - The Falklore Tale of Yuki-onna (Snow Woman)

After my one to one assessment feed back I've been researching into Japanese traditional folk law tales to draw inspiration for my work from different aspects of the culture then just fashion designers. 

I've come across a tale about the Snow Woman (Yuki-onna). In this version of the tale, Yuki-onna is a sprit of a woman who died in the yearly snow storms in northern province of Echigo. 

Yuki-onna appears in Kyuzaemon's (a lonely farmer who's family had passed away) home in the early hours of the morning after asking to be let in and denied. Kyuzaemon realises that the woman is a spirit and becomes very fearful. The sprit explains that she is travelling through the snow to the next village but the wind is against her and needs somewhere to rest before travelling on further. In the morning she is gone and have moved to the next village to haunt the man she was married to before perusing in the snow for leaving her family.

However after further research it there are many revisions of the snow woman tale, most say she encourages travellers in the storms to their deaths but spearing some of the young and beautiful. Some carry on the story saying that when the young and beautiful have grown up she appears again to them and they fall in love.

Some revsions of the tales say that she wears a white kimono, while some say she appears naked in the snow with the palest skin with long jet black hair.

After reading through Richard Gordon Smith's adaptation of the tale and more traditional renditions of the fable the main ideas of the story have given me ideas for my work, such as colour scheme. I could keep my colour scheme very pale, mostly white but maybe with a hint of colour like snow obscuring objects in the distance. 

If I decided to document my final outcomes through a fashion film or a photography shoot I could use the setting of the legend as the scene and backdrop hopefully influencing the viewers interpretation.

One To One Assessment Feedback

Today the group has the first one to one assessments regarding our work we have produced so far on the course. Each student has been set targets to improve their work on their blogs and practical work. Our tutors also commented on our attitude towards college.

I was told that I have a good attitude and show a great interest in my chosen subject but I need to be more driven in my work to get my desired place in one of the top London universities.

In my assessment it was expressed that I am not clear enough in my blog with explaining what I have done, how I have done it and personally evaluating my work in a critical manner - what went wrong, what was successful, how well I feel I have done and how I could improve it. 

I was also advised that I should show images of my work in the process of making my practical work to meet my target of clearly showing the production and development.

When looking at my research my tutors said I had a good amount of secondary research of designers influence but the Japanese culture but advised me to look at different areas of research such as food, architecture, art and other aspects of the culture. I also need to gather more primary research to influence my work. 

Targets

1. Make sure you reflect upon the work you have completed - How well you feel you have done the task - What you feel you could do better.
2. You need to include Artist/Designer research for each round about.
3.Clearly label all irk on blog.
4. More primary research - Photos/drawings etc.